New York Fashion Week kicked off the trend for experiential shows this year with Ralph Lauren’s black tie dinner and performance from Janelle Monae really shaking things up. The theme was both glamourous and sophisticated, a trend which weaved through many of the shows, with so many stand out gowns across the week which I’m sure are now on stylists’ hit lists for their clients to wear during award season. What I love most about spring/summer shows is the colour palletes, with many designers taking inspiration (unsurprisingly) from holiday destinations.
Brandon Maxwell’s collection for Spring/Summer ‘20 was young, fresh and real. The show was full of everyday pieces that are really wearable. What I liked most were the “jeans and nice top” looks that Maxwell had created, a staple in every girl’s wardrobe but one which rarely makes catwalks. I loved the fluidity of the silk shorts and the fun miniskirts. I also really liked how tailoring was worked into the collection as another staple in the modern woman’s wardrobe. The whole collection was bright and the partywear was so fun. The show was a real highlight.
Another highly feminine collection, designed to empower women and give them confidence. “The Dolls” collection was certainly heavily influenced by the 1960’s, with many retro silhouettes. I particularly liked the swingy culottes, capri pants and boxy jackets. The sheer pastel-coloured plaid trench-coat was beautiful and a great transitional piece for next spring. The colour combination of pale pink and darker salmon was also perfection.
A beautiful dream of a show with delicate, soft pieces in delicate, soft colours. The palette was full of muted greens and pale oranges which on paper sounds unusual but really worked and made the collection feel super feminine. The first piece down the runway, a lime belted blazer and lace skirt, was sublime. The collection was full of slip dresses trimmed with lace and silk-covered buttons as well as tactile pleated skirting. There was also a feel of lingerie about the collection but not in an overtly sexy way, it was more grown-up and sophisticated.
Oscar De La Renta
Continuing on the trend from their past two seasons, the collection was again based on travel. This time, Garcia and Kim were heavily influenced by Oscar De La Renta’s native Dominican Republic. It felt like a slice of holiday. From breezy pieces to patchwork prints, full raffia outfits, light tulle and Latin American inspired gowns. I loved the sheer range of colour used. While the popular khakis and oranges of this past summer made an appearance, they didn’t dominate the palette . The flower embroidery was particularly beautiful on perfect-for-holiday cream linens. I also enjoyed the textures, in particular the ruching and bows on many of the skirts.
Another travel influenced show, this time Barbados. This was evident in the bright colours and in-your-face floral patterns. What I loved most about the show, aside from the floral suit first down the runway, was the silhouette of the gowns. They varied from whimsical and floaty, to structured and full on Hollywood Glamour. My favourite pieces were the iced blue gowns towards the end of the show, so elegant and vintage in feel. It almost feels as if the collection was created for awards season.