On the whole, I felt the collections at New York Fashion week for fall 2020 were a little underwhelming. There seemed to be a lot of refinement of trends we have seen in the current season, with only a few designers offering up a change of direction. Leather, or as the mass market will interpret as Pleather, still seems to be popular featuring in many shows. The classic trench coat was re-imagined with contrasting textures and prints in many different shows. There was a lingering nod to 70’s shapes (not that I’m complaining with this trend!), shearling coats and bomber jackets, along with lumberjack styles, so if you invested in any of these trends this season I think the pieces will definitely still be relevant next Autumn.
The simplicity of Jacob’s show stood out, heightened by a big dose of 60’s glamour. The collection wouldn’t feel out of place on the recent series of The Crown, with the first outfit particularly reminiscent of Princess Margaret. Another reminiscent muse was that of Jackie Kennedy, who I’m sure must have inspired the styling of the gown worn by Bella Hadid. The collection consisted of an array of collared swing coats, with little round collars also peeping out of knitwear, sweaters and bomber jackets. My favourite looks were the sleek cocktail dresses and modern day take on the twinset and pearls. Miley Cyrus also made an appearance on the runway which was somewhat puzzling, but she looked incredible with a slightly more modern twist on the aesthetic, fusing the modern with the retro.
This was the first runway show that Veronica Beard have done, and what made it stand out for me as one of my favourite shows was the wearability of the collection. It is a collection that the average woman can wear and feel comfortable in while being tailored and chic. I enjoyed the slight 70’s feel to the pieces and styling, but ultimately felt the core of the collection was in that you could envisage pieces working in your wardrobe, without having to invest in a whole look and would suit real life dressing.
An altogether different vibe from the rest of New York fashion week, the designers Hernandez and McCollough said “It’s about finding beauty in a world that’s unravelling”. There was a lot of shoulder and collar bones on show with plenty of asymmetric looks in the collection. Even double-breasted coats were worn off-the-shoulder, so expect to see this look on every influence come Fall. The collection offered warmth and sophistication, while also being sexy and stylish at the same time. There were some gorgeously shaped leather dresses, and my particular favourite was the red double-breasted coat look, the epitome of power dressing.
The trench cost featured heavily in this collection in various guises, and building on the femininity of Simkhai’s spring collection, Fall featured some of the same pastel tones, pleating and lace, this time mixed with tactile knits, fringing and warmer camel colours. The leather pieces in this collection I felt have already been featured on the high street in similar forms and so offered a new way of styling for Fall 20. Favourites included the Leopard print sleeved blazer, and a slightly more refined teddy coat that what we have seen recently.
This runway show felt rooted in the 80’s with influences described as coming from fortune-telling, superstition and clairvoyance. There was an element of Glam in both the fabrics and colours, with silky paisley printed suiting, lace cuffs, and rich deep purple velvets. Many of the looks featured star print tights, showing the trend for printed tights is also going nowhere. I really loved the tasselled scarfs worn both around the neck and as belts, and the abundance of ruffles.