I love a ruffle, and the Victoria Beckham show was absolutely jam packed with them. On Instagram, Beckham mentions light dresses dancing around the models’ feet when they move and it gave such a breezy feel to the show. The signature tailoring was still present but in contrast the stars of the show really were the billowing dresses that were both simple in their decoration and stunning in their cut. Colour was also used for great effect with a palette of creams and honeys punctuated with bolts of bright green and purple. From this show alone, I can see this past summer’s trend of long flowing dresses continuing into next summer.
The second show with Tisci at the helm and similar to the first show I was initially underwhelmed with the SS20 offering too. I was a great lover of Christopher Bailey and have struggled to get onboard with the new Burberry vision, save for a few incredible pieces. One thing that has continued is the live streaming of the shows. So as always I tuned in to watch it on Facebook. The initial highlight was seeing Agyness Deyn on the runway again, bringing her out of her modelling retirement. When I reflected on the show and looked back through the looks individually, I realized I actually liked more of the elements that I originally thouht. My highlights were the silk pieces, notably the shirts and scarves, but I also liked the grunge tinge to many of the looks that would otherwise be very ladylike. I loved the corsetry and structured mini-skirts. Burberry now is very different to the Bailey era, in terms of direction and what it stands for, and that’s going to take some getting used to for me but I might be starting to come around already!
The inclusivity at Roland Mouret was noticeable. In a sea of shows full of sample size models, it was lovely to see different shapes and sizes on the runway, with a collection made to suit everyone. There was plenty of draping in pastel colours with flowing skirts and dresses. A favourite of mine was the pastel, feather print in a gorgeous double breasted, relaxed jacket. In fact, the whole collection felt relaxed with a sophisticated polished edge. Surprisingly, there were a lot of sequin pieces which were dressed down with rope belts and simple styling.
Pyo’s vision for the collection didn’t involve any element of fantasy, instead showcasing wearable designs that have a place in people’s wardrobes and lives. The cut of most pieces was practical and so would not look out of place in any spring/summer wardrobe. What elevated them from an everyday collection however, was the mis-matched buttons, chic accessories and the colourful checked prints.
The setting for the Erdem show was sublime: set outside in a park with models crunching up and down on the gravel. The dresses were standout in this show too, with so many brightly saturated pink and yellow floral prints. There were many similarities to the dresses in Beckham’s show, in that there were plenty of ruffles, voluminous in cut and hemlines were long. Simplicity however is not a word associated with Erdem, meaning there was much more drama in this collection. There was a Victorian feel with yoke blouses and fringed shawls. The red polka dot suit was also a favourite of mine and was different to how polka dots have been interpreted by the high street recently, both in colour and size.