The jewel in the crown of fashion month, Paris Fashion Week did not disappoint. With so many days and shows it was always going to be hard to choose my favourites, and so many designers presented stand out collections this year. There were a number of themes seen across all of the fashion weeks which continued in Paris, from retro aesthetics of the 70’s and 80’s, utility and military inspiration, and romantic poetical influences of Love with dark undertones.
Probably my favourite show from all of the fashion weeks. It may have taken some time (three shows to be precise) for Slimane to get into his stride at Celine, but this collection delivered in so many ways. It was a polished collection with a polished, concise look and incredible styling. There were pleated, knee-length skirts, culottes, fine knit jumpers and silk blouses worn with classically cut blazers and tailored coats. The accessories were also a major winner, I love a silk scarf and Celine had an abundance of printed logo scarves completing the looks, along with the beautiful knee-high boots and horse-bit belts. If I won the lottery tomorrow I would buy every piece from this collection, but I also think there was a beauty in the fact that a lot of pieces were just your average every-day items that you might already have in your wardrobe such as a pair of light-wash skinny jeans, a cashmere knit or a bomber jacket.
Last season was perhaps my most favourite Chanel show, I thought the beach setting was ingenuous. Always the showman and wanting to deliver more however, Karl Lagerfeld had a piece of heaven delivered for his last posthumous show, serene and beautiful. The slouchy trousers in an array of checked tweeds were my favourite, along with some great winter hats, and in particular I loved the fair isle jumper look. The winter whites were perfection, with a number of puffball skirts in feathers and textured fabrics. As always the jewels caught my eye, with a number of exquisite beaded chain belts and costume necklaces.
Inspiration for the show came from poetry on love, with graphics and verse merging into the collection. A sculpture of kissing lovers was printed intertwined with cartoon roses featuring on a number of items, paired with pieces which had movement and flowed. There were some great structured coats and jackets, that felt modern it their cut and really different. The showstopper pieces were the romantic whimsical tulle gowns, which were absolutely magical. The whole collection felt like it was aimed towards a young audience, and I can definitely see the appeal for influencers and young celebrities.
The Iabel Marant silhouette had such an 80’s vibe, with exaggerated shoulders, peg legs and super slouchy cone-heeled boots, all topped off with western style buckled belts. The pieces had an authentic feel and felt like they were straight out of old pictures or movies. The collection was coherent and very wearable, and I’m sure that the silhouette will filter down to the high streets for autumn. I’m a sucker for a shoulder pad and think it’s a very flattering silhouette. I also particularly liked the utility take which Gigi Hadid wore, showing that utility is a trend which will continue throughout the year.
The prettiness of this collection is what really stood out for me. The girly soft floral fabrics and decadent feathered sandals could almost be a spring summer collection, however it was toughened up with buckled boots and fringed leather jackets. I particularly like the whimsical draping of the skirts and the breathtaking dresses towards the end of the the show with billowing trains.
With sustainability in fashion becoming an ever more talked about concept, it’s refreshing to see a designer who has continually been at the forefront of addressing this topic for years. With initiatives such as rainforest conservation at the heart of the show and dedicating a tree to a loved one and Viscose in the collection being sourced only from certified sustainably managed forests in Sweden, there is a lot that the industry should be taking on board. The collection itself had some lovely details such as the long ribbons from coat belts or dresses left trailing to the floor, creating a fluid silhouette. There was also a slight retro feel from the wide collars and lapels to the round, yoke necked dresses. There was an ease and elegance to the dresses, that you could just throw them on for instant comfort and sophistication, topped with one of the beautifully tailored belted coats.