London fashion week was a riot of colours and fresh ideas and almost made the New York shows seem a little dull in comparison. I am totally torn as to my top 5 shows. Torn as to whether I preferred the ready-to-wear straight off the runway looks that could be adopted by the masses, or the imaginative elaborate ideas that caught the imagination and offered something truly inspirational and creative. There were again retro references to the 70s and 80s in many collections, but there was also a lot of neon and bright colours on show in London and more pieces with attitude.
Surprisingly, one of my favourite collections at London Fashion week was Victoria Beckham. I loved every single piece of the tailored, polished collection. There was a feeling of warmness including the tweed prints, knitted jumpers and lots of bold red (one of my favourite colours to wear). The coats were tailored to perfection and the colour combinations were sublime, particularly the lilac paired with red. I also really liked the cream and golden square print which added a modern take to otherwise simple shapes. The pieces come together to make up a powerful collection of ultimate classics and of course the undertones of 70’s and 80’s didn’t go un-missed either.
The inspiration behind the show was Princess Orietta Doria Pogson Pamphilj, whose family opposing Mussolini had to leave Rome for London and go into hiding. Before leaving she is said to have torn paintings from her palazzo and wore them as kilts along with sewing her jewels into her clothes. This inspiration is certainly evident in the opulent collection of Jewel tones, embellishments and over the top almost costume like-pieces (that veil!). I loved the regal emerald coloured coat and could really see this on a member of the royal family, not surprising as Erdem is often a go-to designer of the duchess of Cambridge, and his past collections which have also been inspired by the monarchy. My other favourite looks are the camel knitted twinset paired with the sequinned feathered skirt which is effortless, and the purple floral ballgown which also caught my eye.
I have been a Roksanda fan for a long time, and again I wasn’t disappointed. A theme among London fashion week was volume, and this was a trend seen at Roksanda who presented an incredible burnt orange taffeta gown. I loved the structural silhouettes and how the contrasting fabrics moved on the runway. The silk, blue and yellow dress was another of my favourites, with such beautiful flow and movement. I also really liked Roksanda’s look herself as she took to the stage at the end of the show, and in particular her gorgeous yellow boots!
The collection had a homely feel, with oversized wearable pieces. There were some great coats on the runway, and my absolute favourite piece was the green paisley jumper. The taffeta theme running through the collection was particularly unusual, especially the ankle tie shoes which made a beautiful sandal. Oversized was common on many of the runways this season, but Anderson cinched in his silhouettes with giant belts, offering a different take on how to wear the trend.
The last spot of my top 5 was a difficult one to fill with Molly Goddard narrowly missing out. However the sheer number of beautiful gowns presented by Quinn secured the final spot, that and the beautiful show space, Freya Ridings on the piano and the confetti. Simply stunning. One year on from the Queen sitting prominently in his front row, Quinn has been keen to elevate the idea of Couture in London with luxurious fabrics and prints. Silhouettes were voluminous and almost theatrical, and there was a contrast between structural silhouettes with bright floral designs and flowing gowns with more muted watercolour patterns.
(ok… top 6!)
So as I said, a top 5 was really difficult to do. I didn’t really want to include Alexa Chung, and don’t feel like it does quite fit in the top 5. That said, I do think the collection serves as a great look-book for autumn/winter and that we might see a lot of these looks filter down the the high street. The looks are accessible and you could see them being worn by any number of influencers come the colder weather, take a look at the finale below to see some of the commercial, wearable looks presented.